Journey Across Africa

Below you'll find stories of my two year experience as a Peace Corps Volunteer in the small West African country of The Gambia. After my service I traveled solo, with only a small backpack, across West Africa; reaching N'Djamena, Chad after two months. Visa problems for Libya and Civil unrest in the Darfur region of Western Sudan made Chad my last stop.

Peace Corps Service: Aug. 2003 - July 2005

Journey Across Africa: July 2005 - Sept. 2005

Name:
Location: Boston, MA, United States

Tuesday, August 23, 2005

That's a lot of mud!

Day 29
Mon Aug 15
Start: Sevare, Mali
Mid: Djenne, Mali
End: Sevare, Mali

Luckily Monday was Market Day for Djenne. This helped in two regards for me: transportation there and back in one day was now very easy to accomplish - and the market would add more flavor and colour to visiting this ancient city.

The city itself is south-west of Mopti, and is an island between the Niger and Bani rivers. Like Timbuktu, it was a popular transportation hub in the 14th and 15th centuries. However, unlike Timbuktu, it didn't decline and actually stayed wealthy throughout the next half-dozen centuries.

The most popular thing in Djenne to see? The mosque. Why is it so special? Because it is the largest mud-brick building in the world. The original Mosque was built in 1280 when the king of Djenne converted to Islam (therefore his kingdom did). It fell apart in the 1800s and was completely torn down and rebuilt in 1907. Wooden poles stick out from all sides for an interesting view. This is for two reasons: The wood itself helps the structure withhold its own weight, and second, it helps support the ladders each year when 3000 volunteers help re-mud the mosque.



On top of the mosque, at each corner, is an Ostrich egg perched high above. The original builders asked the spiritual leader at the time how to keep the mosque safe. He said to place an Ostrich egg on top - so they did. It's still there.

I toured Djenne with Alessandra, an Italian woman I met while waiting for the car to fill up. It helped as she spoke French better than I could. However, when we bought a guide it became clear that she understood his English better than his French so he gave the tour in English - good for me.

On the southern side of town in Tapama Dienepo, the tomb of a young girl sacrificed in the 9th century after a local religious leader decided the town was corrup. Her indirect descendants still take care of the tomb 1,000 years later.



Our guide for the afternoon was named Toca, and for $5 each we got him for two hours touring the island. He lived in Wisconsin for a few years for physical therapy. He couldn't walk a few years ago and a tourist couple from the US paid for his entire passage to the US and medical bills for therapy for a year. The couple has never met Toca's family, and he only met them for the same time he met us - a two hour guide of the island. He was in a weelchair before. Now he walks with a limp. He knew Michigan, been to Chicago and Detroit and actually recognized the name Grand Rapids. "Grand - something" he said.

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